Yes, you tape and mud that seam as well. You can click on any of these photos to view a full-size version. Apply KERDI-FIX to the substrate and spread evenly with an appropriate notched trowel. Yes. IMHO the Kerdi fix at every seam IS overkill. A lot of people ask me which silicone is best. When water gets behind your tile (and water WILL get behind your tile!) You can bond the rubber seal to the kerdi with kerdi-fix. :eek: I can assure you I don't keep ice in it unless I have to :wave:, but it is always half full of water. I live in michigan where the winters are cold if that helps with the answer. Also, am I supposed to thinset and tape the space between the cement board and lip of the tub? It's been full of water since 2001? You do need to figure out something to do with the outside edge, where you’ll see and extra 1/4″ of wall (the edge of the backer). If the instructions for the product say to use 100% silicone then that is the way to proceed. They will not suggest its use for primary seaming or for areas that might be constantly wet. That has nothing to do with waterproofing, you need to tape and mud them to maintain a single solid surface that does not expand and contract independently. 3. On silicones, since Laticrete came out, I love it. Five years later, we managed to finally get to tub stage. Nope, use it. Regarding my shower pan liner, is it okay to tack it right on the foil faced foam sheathing (into the studs of course), or should I take all that down and just leave the studs and fluffy insulation? Curing silicone basically means letting it dry. Thanks for your help. Great site my man. Or am I just supposed to wait to do any waterproofing for those holes until I apply the tiles? The kerdi mixing valve seal is 4-1/2″ and the Hansgrohe ibox requires a 5″ hole. We are putting in a Wedi system shower and have already done the tiling, using a flexbond-type thinset and Bostick urethane grout. One week later i was able to peel out the Kerdi bands off the kerdi boards. All the cool kids are doin’ it. Ever have one tank that nothing survives in? To seal a PVC pipe with silicon you must first obtain one or more tubes of silicone, then prepare the PVC pipe. I've used a lot of Kerdi fix for its intended purpose of sealing membranes and fixtures, and have never tried to caulk a tub surround with it. That and seeing the condensate on the plastic with our open wall cavities in the training areas when using liquids is what has made me a strong believer in sheet products and using felt. Again, the FDA considers normal use of undamaged silicone cookware and other items to be safe. I don’t know why they would want you to leave it in there unless it’s part of the seal for their trim. If it’s at the base of the wall water will get to it. JB even water tested one within city limits to fulfill a building code check list. At the time they didn't have KerdiFix out. Regarding a shower with Hardi substrate and Kerdi waterproofing—– Get off my ass about it. If so, will the silicone bond? 100% silicone products are not paintable. I have a drain clean out from the kitchen sink on the main floor that’s at the base of my basement shower. Do I need to prepare that tile with anything? Do I need to seal the cut face of the Hardi with a smear of silicone also? Do I absolutely need to use kerdi fix around the mixing valve and tub flange or can I use 100% silicone? The only two things I can think of offhand. For those areas thin set or Kerdi-fix are recommended. Great, thanks for the info! I always use backer rod if I want a sealant to stay put. The valve manufacturer supplied the typical plastic placeholder/spacer that temporarily attaches to the valve and protrudes through the substrate. Unlike in other ela… If I place the kerdi membrane up to that, and then it is removed when the trim is added, what prevents moisture from getting through that hole? Hello. Silicone caulk is expensive but worth the cost due to its flexibility and long life. View Full Version : Silicone vs Polyurethane on Kerdi. Then I will apply redguard to it? When the water gets nasty, every few months, we pump it out with a tile saw pump. Certified by NSF to NSF / ANSI Standard #51.Safe for incidental food contact. Brilliant! I have one question though which I’m unclear about. My exterior wall has foil faced foam sheathing (1/2″ thick), and behind that are the studs and normal fluffy insulation. That thing doesnt stick. :D. I'm thinking of taking the mud course in march, maybe i'll do it just so's i can say i drunk sumthin outa that box :yipee: GabeS I like to bring the board down to the lip and the tile down past the edge of the board to the tub. « Reply #1 on: May 29, 2018, 12:33:28 pm » You can never tell, but the absence of a earth connection & wrist strap connection would indicate that the mat has not been properly designed to create an ESD workstation. Okay, so you have the back side of the tile sealed with silicon so the water runs down the back side, around the hole, and in to the tub. Pure silicone will have stronger adhesion, less shrinkage lower temperature application, and stronger resistance … This way eliminates it. Silicone is a material that is found in adhesives, caulk and sealants. (Picture 1). You still need waterproofing over the backer above the fiberglass, but nothing is needed over where the fiberglass is. Schluter Kerdi fix was recommended earlier in the thread. Moen states in their instructions to keep the plaster ground in place during installation of the trim and that it should sit flush with the finished tile. However, once you get those installed the only way water can get into them is to fly sideways – it doesn’t do that. What do you think about Kirdifix? It will just back up and eventually (over the years) saturate the substrate! . That stuff is indestructible! 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